From grove to table: talking olive oil with Citizens of Soil

Extra virgin olive oil lies at the heart of almost every Mediterranean meal. A true staple across the region, it’s the thread that ties so many flavours and traditions together – and a perfect place to kick off our month-long celebration of the Mediterranean diet.

We caught up with Sarah Fulton Vachon, founder and olive oil sommelier at small-batch producer Citizens of Soil, a supplier with whom we are very proud to partner. She explained what makes extra virgin olive oil such a key Mediterranean ingredient, and why Citizens of Soil are on a mission to turn it from a commodity into something far more meaningful: a community.

What makes extra virgin olive oil such a central ingredient throughout the Mediterranean?

Extra virgin olive oil has been at the heart of Mediterranean life since antiquity. It’s not just an ingredient but the cornerstone of its cuisine, culture and health. It’s deeply tied to traditional ways of eating, which is why it’s funny when people say you can’t cook with extra virgin olive oil. What, exactly, do they think people have been using for thousands of years in the Mediterranean?

From a practical standpoint, olive trees thrive in the Mediterranean’s warm, dry climate, making olive oil the most natural and abundant fat source in the region. It has long been considered a ‘superfood’ and used across skincare, health and nutrition, according to documents going back to Ancient Greece.

What does ‘extra virgin’ actually mean?

‘Extra virgin’ is the highest grade of olive oil. It means the oil is made purely from olives – just crushed and pressed juice – without heat, chemicals or refining. By law, it must be produced at temperatures below 27°C, and ‘solely by mechanical means’. This is a label to look out for as it’s the legal definition of extra virgin olive oil.

In simple terms, it’s the closest thing you can get to fresh fruit juice from an olive – vibrant, nutrient rich and full of natural character.

How do regional differences (especially soil and climate) influence the flavour and quality of olive oil?

Olive oil is a true expression of terroir, just like wine. Soil, climate, altitude, proximity to the sea and sunshine all shape how olives grow and, ultimately, how the oil tastes.

Flavour and nutrition are also hugely influenced by how the oil was farmed (healthy soils make healthy oils), when it was harvested, which olive varieties or region it comes from, and how it was milled. That last one is crucially important. It’s not just about beautiful, sweeping landscapes: high-tech stainless machinery enables the cleanest, quickest extraction possible to capture the essence of the fruit.

Even in the same region, different olive varieties will yield completely different profiles, from green and peppery all the way to mellow, fruity and floral.

What is the inspiration behind Citizens of Soil?

Citizens of Soil started as simply a way to help our friends, the Amagiotakis. They were making this delicious, high-quality oil in Crete, taking what they needed but selling the rest to ‘middle men’ who’d blend it with hundreds of other oils. Along the way, it lost its flavour and identity.

That’s when we realised the bigger issue: olive oil is traded as a commodity, which squeezes farmers, degrades the land and leaves shoppers with bland, anonymous oils that lack the freshness and health benefits of the real thing.

At the time, I was working in sustainability at Provenance.org, diving deep into opaque commodity supply chains like coffee and chocolate. I saw there how lack of transparency harms both the producer and the end consumer.

What began as a side hustle to get our friends a more fair share evolved into a much bigger mission: to turn a commodity into a community.

How is Citizens of Soil helping to change the olive oil industry?

We started this business to change the olive oil industry for good. Five years on, we're more fired up than ever to grow our farming community and champion them as they work, harvest to harvest, to re-build in harmony with nature.

By sourcing directly from small-scale producers and championing female producers, we are supporting local rural economies and culture. And by working with those who prioritise healthy soils with regenerative practices, we are supporting their future and a stronger food system overall.

On a more visible level, we were the first brand in the UK to open up our third-party lab reports and put things like polyphenols, harvest dates, and full traceability and quality details on pack. This has helped inspire others in the category to do the same, but the majority still do not. We still have a long way to go.

How does Citizens of Soil support independent olive farmers?

Farmers not only feed us but are also stewards of our land and planetary health. They need a better seat at the table.

For us, support starts with paying farmers fairly so they’re properly rewarded for the quality and care we expect in return. This allows them to reinvest in their land, improve their practices and build more resilient, sustainable businesses.

We also work directly with producers, cutting out middle tiers to support small-batch, independent growers. We have full traceability and can share their stories with our wider community.

What impact do you hope Citizens of Soil will have on the way people buy, use and think about olive oil?

The goal is to shift olive oil from a faceless commodity to something people truly value and understand. That means:

• Buying with intention: looking for the right indicators on pack and choosing oils based on quality.
• Using it across everything: this is the healthiest fat and cooking oil, and can transform the flavour of your food in so many ways.
• Appreciating it for what it is: it’s not just another ‘edible oil’ or flat cooking oil. It’s a fresh juice teeming with benefits, and the price reflects that.

Ultimately, the ambition is to build a world where people know their favourite olive oil, understand how it’s made, and recognise the people and ecosystems behind it – turning a commodity into a community.

Shop Citizens of Soil extra virgin olive oil at Mindful Chef.